Clarifying Facial Gel with Japanese Green Tea Extract

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Deionized water
79.15

Protachem Na2 (Protameen) (Disodium EDTA)
0.05

Carbopopl Ultrez 30 (Lubrizol) (Carbomer)
0.80

Phase B

Glycerin, 99.7% USP
2.00

Glucam E-20 Lubrizol (Methyl gluceth-20)
1.00

Keltrol CG (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum)
0.25

Phase C

Sodium hydroxide (18% sol.)
1.75

Phase D

Butylene glycol
6.00

Ethyl alcohol
2.00

Salicylic acid
1.00

Phase E

Cremophor CO-40 (BASF) (PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil)
0.25

Schercemol LL ester (Lubrizol) (Lauryl lactate)
0.25

Phase F

Euxyl PE 9010 (sch-lke & mayr) (phenoxyethanol (and) ethylehexylglycerin)
0.50

Actiphyte of Japanese Green Tea GL (Active Organics) (Water, glycerin, camelia oleifera leaf extract)
5.00

Procedure

Combine D and mix until salicylic acid crystals are fully dissolved. Set aside for later addition. Dissolve disodium EDTA in water. When disodium EDTA is fully dissolved, set mixing speed @400-500 rpm and slowly disperse Carbopol Ultrez 30 polymer into water. Mix until polymer is fully hydrated. Premix B into a uniform slurry and add to A. Increase mixing speed as needed to maintain uniformity. Add C to A/B and increase mixing speed as needed to maintain uniformity. Continue mixing for 10 minutes. Add D to batch and adjust mixing speed as needed to reduce any splashing due to viscosity change. Mix until uniform. Premix E and add to batch. Mix until uniform. Add F ingredients individually, mixing between additions.

Properties

Appearance-Translucent gel; pH-4.0-4.5; Viscosity (mPa-s) (Brookfield RV, DVII+ Viscometer spindle #4 @ 20 rpm, 25°C @ 24 hours)-3,500-6,000; Yield Value (dyn/cm)-300-500; Stability-Passed 2 months @ RT, 45°C and 50°C. Passed 4 F/T cycles.